Length Check & Updates

In the past the length of my hair wasn't as much of a priority to me as the health and condition of my hair. I still feel that hair grows back and there's nothing wrong with cutting it. In October of 2011 I signed up for a hair challenge, It's All Mine. After doing a henna treatment I blow dried, trimmed, and flat ironed my hair straight. I noticed that my hair has grown a lot. Even though I've been completely relaxer free for some years now I never stopped getting hair cuts. The cuts were more than just a trim so prior to joining the hair challenge my hair appeared to stay the same length. It's definitely been a challenge to keep the scissors away from my hair if it's not for trimming purposes.

If you haven't checked out Naturally MzDezy on Facebook yet I encourage you to! I recently posted a photo showing my hair growth from October 2011 to the present.

The Natural Hair Challenge 2014 is now closed, but if you're interested in seeing how much hair you can grow and retain I'd say go for it! "Unofficially join" the challenge by pledging to do all that's necessary to protect, and maintain your hair. For me the trick is staying on top of conditioning daily, deep conditioning as needed, and trimming as needed. Wearing styles other than poofs and wash n go's has helped me be successful in growth retention. Being challenged to do protective styling has been interesting as well. I've come up with some pretty creative hair styles along the way.

Have you been documenting your own hairs progress? Do you have pictures of styles you've done on yourself or others? Share your pictures via Naturally MzDezy on Facebook, and be added to the "Hair I Did" album!! You'd be surprised by who you can inspire with your hair photos. You can also send me a Tweet @MzDezy!

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Some Naturally MzDezy via Facebook "Hair I Did" Photos

Step by Step: Hawk Variation

After wearing my hair in a twist out for a while I needed to wash and style it for Easter, but was short on time. Instead I thought of an easy style to get me through the day until I could wash my hair that night. The end result of this style looks like a mohawk made of puffs.

Tools I used: Shea butter mixture, 3 rubber bands, 7 standard sized protected bobby pins, 1 large protected bobby pin, and hair pins (number may vary)

I didn't want to manipulate my hair too much so I didn't use a comb. To begin I smoothed on my shea butter mixture to moisturize my hair and to give it a shine. Next I sectioned my hair into 4 sections making the biggest in the front of my head.

(Right) The red shows where a rubber band is used. The brown shows where rough parts were made.

Tip: If you part your hair using a comb you'll be able to see the parts easier in the finished product. If you use your hands/fingers to section your hair there won't be parts showing in the finished style.

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The very first hump in a basic pompadour secured with one large bobby pin. Once that's completed I moved on to the next pony tail in line. The hair is roughly divided into two parts, rolled, and then secured with a standard bobby pin.

 (Right) The red shows how the pony tail is roughly divided into two parts. The brown shows where the rubber band is securing the ponytail.

Tip: The rubber bands don't have to be very tight, or to pull your hair uncomfortably in any way. The sections that are pinned don't have to be exactly the same size either.

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After your first section is finished it should look similar to this:

 (Right) The brown shows the direction the hair was rolled. Yellow shows where a bobby pin was placed and red shows the rubber band that was used.



Tip: You can see that the pompadour was bobby pinned in two places since the section was so large. I made the next section's rolls large enough to touch and blend with the roll next to it. You won't notice the rubber bands once the rolls are done.

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Continue to roll and pin for the remaining pony tails.

Tip: When you section your hair, if you make the sections smaller as you go towards the back of your head the puffs will appear to cascade down your head ^_~" Also, when securing with the standard bobby pins, place one pin on each side of the roll. This will help minimize the amount of bobby pins needed.

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The last step when all of the rolls are pinned is to just clean up any stray hairs, curls, or make the puffs tighter with the hair pins. Since I started this with hair that had been previously twisted I had random strays all over the place.

After pinning everything how I liked here is the result:

 

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Night Care: Since this style is so simple to do I take it down completely and cover with a satin bonnet before bed. In the morning I sprits with my EO water mixture, smooth and restyle.

This hawk variation, puff hawk --- what would you call it?? --- has many pros:

• Can be worn by people with different hair lengths
• The number of puffs can be changed very easily to switch up the style
• People who are transitioning can wear this style
• Doesn't take a lot of time to style
• Easy style for people of all skill levels to achieve
• Can serve as a protective style since the ends of your hair are covered

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I encourage you to try this style!! If you do make sure you post it on the Facebook Fan Page, so that it may be added to the "Hair I Did" album for others to see! You're welcome to post any and all natural hair pictures of styles you've created or styles that inspire you in some way!

Style Quickie: Two Strand Twists on Blown out Hair

I realized I've been straying away from the hair challenge that I signed up for last year!!! One of the points is to do protective styles to promote length retention. So from here out, I'll be making conscious efforts to stay away from puffs, wash n go's, and other loose styles.

It's been almost a week since I co washed and styled my hair. I really wanted to try a new heat protectant I bought, but didn't want to flat iron my hair. The style that popped in my mind was two strand twists on blown out hair.

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I blow dried my hair about 80% of the way, making sure the roots were the most dry. I also avoided putting too much heat on the ends of my hair. After sectioning my head I began twisting in the back of my head. The twists in the back are randomly placed. When I worked on the front section I twisted with more order. I chose this method so that the front section could cover up any gaps or un-uniform twists in the back.
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Products Used:

• Vo5 Conditioner
• Heat Protectant
• Oils (I mixed in a bottle) coconut oil, grape seed oil, sweet almond oil
• My shea coconut butter mixture
• Water (to hold the ends of my hair)

Notes that helped me:

• While twisting the back I would occasionally look in a mirror to make sure I wasn't making the twists too big. If there was too much space in between twists I just divided the over sized one in half.
• The front section of my hair, in general, becomes loose over time easier than the back of my head. To curb this, I made these twists smaller than the twists in the back.
• Once there was about a half inch from the end of my hair I'd dip my finger in water, and then continue to twist. To protect my ends I twisted as far as I could, and then twirled the twisted end with my wet finger. This made the end curl, and hold without the use of any gels.
• To get the twists to lay a certain way in the front I parted the front section before I began twisting. I made sure the twists stayed on their side of the part while I styled.
• Last time I did this style I noticed a lot of gaps in the back of my head that weren't caught in the styling process. To avoid this, I'd grab a mirror and check while styling the front. Adjusting as needed helped eliminate this.

At night there are a couple of options to help preserve your hair and this style.

1. Wearing a satin scarf or bonnet can help without drying out your twists
2. Using a satin pillow case so moisture isn't absorbed from your hair

I didn't want to risk flattening my twists too much, so I opted for the satin pillow case. In the past this was sufficient for me.

Since the scalp is exposed more than usual with a style like this, it can become dry. For me, a dry scalp and an itchy scalp go hand in hand! At night, I'll use my oil mixture and massage it into my scalp. After rubbing the mixture in my hands I'll gently massage it into the twists themselves -- concentrating on the ends. This can be done as needed.

I may try out a couple different styles for these twists. Whenever I feel like I need a change I'll wear this style in a twist out before washing and restyling! I'll be sure to post pictures in the "Hair I Did" album on Facebook, so be sure to check it out!! If you have any pictures of styles that you've done yourself -- post them on the wall and they'll be added!

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Transitioning Tips: Breakage

I think one of the top issues I had while transitioning from relaxed hair to natural hair was preventing breakage. Breakage is the result of your hair not being strong enough, or able to withstand being manipulated. Even healthy hair can break if the force is great enough and limits are exceeded. Breakage was also a motivator for me to be chemical free. There are a number of ways to stop, and prevent breakage from happening. Here are five tips that I find useful and would suggest to others.

Trim your ends!
I know it can be hard to let go of your hair, but if you neglect to trim your ends when necessary you'll end up losing a lot more in the long run. Some sources suggest trimming every couple of months. I suggest trimming when necessary, because you may not have split ends or damage after 6 months. BUT if you ignore damaged ends they'll literally fray, and split up the hair shaft like a loose rope unraveling. The only way to correct this is to cut it off. There are products and methods you can use to temporarily solve this, but extreme split ends are definitely preventable. Neglect in this way can go from needing a minor trim to needing a major cut! Split or damaged ends can become dehydrated quickly, which leads to brittleness. This brittleness is what makes your hair snap off at its weakest point.

Be mindful when using heat!
Over use of heating tools, and lack of heat protector can lead to damaged hair strands, follicles and/or scalp. All of these need to be healthy to maintain health hair, length, and to prevent breakage. Over time heat will lead to damage if used in excess. Heat damage can come from curling irons, flat irons, hair driers, hot rollers, and even the sun! Constantly applying heating tools to your hair weakens it. You can cause permanent damage the first time you apply a heating tool to your hair by incorrect use!

Maintain a healthy diet!
I don't mean start a crash diet, swear off meat, and sign up for a marathon. You should however be conscious of how healthy, and what you eat. Good nutrition and healthy hair do correlate to each other. An imbalanced diet consisting of too many sugars and fats (for example) can be a cause of dry, brittle hair. Both of these lead to breakage. Eating a well balanced diet will allow your scalp and hair to be at its healthiest condition. If certain vitamins/nutrients are missing then you're depriving your scalp and hair of what it needs to stay strong and to combat breakage.

Moisturize & condition!
Keeping your hair sufficiently conditioned and moisturized will help it maintain its flexibility and elasticity. The more flexible and elastic the strands are the less likely they are to break from tension, stretching, and general manipulation. Water is a great moisturizer, and conditioning your hair while it's wet is one of the best times! Hair absorbs conditioner the best when it's clean, and rid of buildup. I'd suggest washing at least once a week. If your hair is dry, from lack of moisture, then waiting longer to wash it is doing more harm than good. Moisturizers will penetrate the hair and conditioners will help smooth and seal it in. If your hair is breaking very easily, lack of moisture is most likely the culprit.

Beware of tension!
Constant tension on any part of your hair will eventually lead to breakage, thinning, or even permanent hair loss. Tension can come from headbands, elastics, rubber bands, hair ribbons, braids, ponytails, etc. Frequent rubbing (friction) from elastics, for example, can weaken the hair at that section. Over time this part of the hair can break off. Pony tails that are too tight can also cause excessive tension at the hair line. Continually doing this can damage the individual hair follicles permanently, leading to traction alopecia. If you're getting headaches, a sore scalp, or tender head from a style/tool, then it is too restricting!

While transitioning it's very important that you stay aware of your hairs condition and state. Preventing breakage will ease the process, and help you maintain length!



The part of your hair where your natural hair meets the relaxed hair (above in pink) is the weakest of the strand!! It's extremely important to take care while styling, washing, etc. Staying on top of conditioning can help protect this area and minimize breakage.



It can be challenging to blend the two textures of hair while transitioning. Don't let this discourage you!

Style Ideas:

Flat twist styles/updos

Creative buns

Twists done properly using weave

Bantu knots or knot outs

Braids done properly using weave

Two strand flat twists

Rod sets

Combo of any of the above & more

Do you have any styles that you'd suggest to someone who's transitioning? Any tips?? Follow me on http://www.twitter.com/mzdezy and share!!

Style Quickie: Sock Bun

I was looking through some older pictures and came across ones I took while styling sock buns. There is an older post on this style I wore, and you can watch the YouTube video that inspired me. The link for the video is under the "links" tab at the top.

 

Products Used:

1. Peppermint Shampoo by Dark and Lovely Naturally
2. Wave Moisturize by Dark and Lovely Naturally
3. Leave-in Conditioner by Motions

The products that I used can be found at local beauty supply stores, or even drug stores. They were about $5 each. I love this shampoo! Peppermint stimulates blood circulation in the scalp, and you can feel it working. My hair is soft afterward, smells great, and is tangle free. The wave moisturizer smells great and a little goes a long way. When doing twists the moisturizer helps to keep them from unraveling. The leave-in conditioner is a great go to product. It's inexpensive, works well, and lasts a long time. It leaves your hair feeling moisturized, soft, and easy to manage.

Tools Used:

Rat Tail Comb to help make large parts & Large Tooth Comb to help detangle

 

Elastics to make pony tails for the buns & Clips to hold extra hair out of the way. You may also need a bobby pin or two.

Styling:

After washing, applying product, and sectioning hair I begin to blow dry it

All that hair!! I hardly ever blow dry it, so I didn't realize how much it had grown!

I ended up with 3 sections for this style. They're all completely optional and you can change it up! You can have 3 buns if you'd like, make the 3 the same size, do something different in the front besides two strands....endless possibilities! An elastic is used initially to make 2 ponytails with the middle and bottom sections.

The front section is clipped out of the way. In the end, this will be twisted into small two strands. 

The rolled sock is placed over the ponytail. You do this just as if the sock was an elastic.

This part was easier to do if I had an elastic on my wrist before grabbing the hair. You want to fold the hair down and around the sock. Make sure  the sock is covered evenly on all sides with your hair. Next, secure the hair with the elastic that's around your wrist. There may be pieces of hair that are sticking out from under the elastic. That's fine! Roll that hair under as if doing a big twist. Continue around the bun, then secure the end with a bobby pin.

I ended up with one big bun in the middle and a small one at the bottom.

The front section was then twisted into small two strands. I used the wave moisturizer for this part. 

Completed two strands!

I pulled the twists up and secured them with a hair comb. You can leave them down, secure up with a bobby pin, or other hair piece. You can be creative here!

SUGGESTION: See the white showing on my top bun? I'd suggest using a black sock, because of this. If you do have small gaps it won't be noticeable.

SUGGESTION: If a hair elastic is too thick/big for your hair try using a small rubber band to make the initial ponytail. That's what I ended up doing for the smallest bun in the very back.

To see another way I wore my sock buns check out an older post H E R E !!


Sock Buns are:

• easy updos
• good styles for transitioners
• quick
• easy to switch from casual to more formal
• nice protective styles

~~ Do you have any variations of this style? Show me!! ~~

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Style Quickie: Fro Hawks!

Fro hawks are super easy to wear, fast to style, and very cute! Love them!! There was a time where all I'd wear were fro hawks. I like them, because you're able to dress them up, or wear them casually. I'm also able to have my curls and big hair; both which I love ^_~"  I also like wearing one half of my hair pulled back....half fro hawk??

Things I use to style: wide tooth comb, essential oil (EO) water mix, conditioner, bobby pins, rollers (sometimes), and hair flowers

Old styles such as twist outs, braid out, knot outs, wash n go's, blowout's, etc. can all be easily turned into a fro hawk....or half fro hawk <~~~ I need a name for this; help me out!



Hawks from Wash n Go's



Fresh highlights done @ a N.E.R.D. concert



Big hair!! @ a Common concert



Wash n go with conditioner only




Photo by: Anne Inez Photography



Hawk from a Twist Out





Other Hawks



Old Roller Set



Use flat twists/braids to protect your sides



You can get away with a fro hawk if you're transitioning by flat twisting or braiding the sides, then roller setting the ends. I wouldn't recommend wearing a fro hawk that's loose for too long. The longer you wear it the more chance there is for your hair to tangle. You don't want to risk damaging or losing any hair. If the style is a protective one using set curls, two strand twists, or braids, then it could be worn for a longer amount of time. Fro hawks are a style that can be worn with just about any length of hair. They're super easy to do, and there are many ways to style them.

Yay or nay for fro hawks?? How do you wear/style yours? Show me!!

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Coconut Oil

My latest venture was making whipped shea butter with coconut oil! I love shea butter, coconut oil, and essential oils, so why not make something great out of all of them? This time around I made sure to take pictures of the process.

What I Used:

• Raw Unrefined Shea Butter
• Organic Extra Virgin Coconut Oil
• Olive Oil
• Carrot Oil
• Vitamin E Oil
• Lavender Essential Oil (EO)
• Lemon Essential Oil

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Using a double boiler, on a medium heat I melt the shea butter and coconut oil. About two parts raw unrefined shea butter was used to about one part organic extra virgin coconut oil. It takes a few seconds for it to melt completely. That's fine, because I don't want to cook the oils; I just want them melted.



Once the majority of the shea butter and coconut oil is melted I turn the heat down to low. Using a plastic knife I gently stirred the remaining chunks until melted. After completely melting, I add in Vitamin E Oil, Olive Oil, and Carrot Oil. It looks like popcorn oil.



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Next, it's time to cool the oil down to stop the cooking process, and so that it may be whipped! I put the entire pot into the freezer for about 3 minutes. After removing, I use a hand mixer (on a medium setting) to whip the oils together.



I mixed the oils for about 3 minutes before returning the pot to the freezer. In the beginning you'll notice that the mixture returns to its liquid state. The friction caused by the mixer reheats the oil, so the process of mixing/chilling has to be repeated a few times.



Soon you'll see froth on top of the oils. This is caused by the air forced into the oils by the mixer. You want to see this; it's what will make the whipped product light and fluffy.



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After repeating this process a few times the mixture will start to thicken up.



At this point you want to start paying extra attention to your mixture. Keep blending, but cut the time in the freezer down so you don't over chill the mix. It'll remind you for a watery pancake batter. If you want a more airy product set the blender speed to high. This will force more air into the oils.



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Now is when I add in any EO that I plan on using. For this mixture I used about 6 drops of Lemon EO and about 30 drops of Lavender EO before blending. Smell the whipped mix, and if the scent isn't to your liking adjust the number of drops you use.



When you see a "skin" forming on the top after putting in the freezer you no longer need to chill the mixture. Continue to blend until you reach a consistency that you like. Keep in mind that the mixture will solidify a little more after it completely chills.



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When the shea butter-coconut oil mixture starts to look like a body butter, or thick lotion I stop blending. This is the consistency I desire. If you keep blending the result will be more airy and solid. Stopping here gives you a creamier product. In the end both ways will melt at body temperature.

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Using my plastic knife I scrape in my whipped shea butter into small glass jars with air tight lids. A piping bag (like bakers use) could be used to help transfer the whipped shea butter into containers.



As you can probably tell, the results resemble a lotion. The consistency will vary depending on the air temperature. The amount of coconut oil you use will help determine this. If stored in a cool place it'll remain soft, but solid.



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Pros of this Mix:

• The acid in Lemon EO will help seal the hairs cuticle trapping in moisture
• Lemon EO acts as a clarifier to your hair helping to remove excess product and add shine
• Lavender EO is great for dry, oily, or damaged hair, because it helps normalize natural oil production
• Both Lemon EO and Lavender EO help fight the causes of dandruff.
• Coconut oil melts at about 75 degrees, so your natural body temp helps it spread. Less product needed
• Coconut oil is a natural antimicrobial
• Shea butter and coconut oil are both great hair and skin conditioners
• Shea butter has many healing properties
• Shea butter is quickly absorbed by the skin
• Carrot oil is high in antioxidants that help fight hair loss
• Olive oil helps improve elasticity (how far hair can stretch before breaking) of dry hair
• The whipped mix isn't as thick as raw shea butter, so people who were turned off by that have a new alternative

Uses for this Mix:

• Apply to wet hair after shampooing, and before styling for a leave in conditioner
• Use to protect the ends of your hair if they're damaged
• Massage into the scalp at night
• Could be used for two strands, finger curls, and other protective styles
• A hot oil treatment since the mix will liquefy with heat
• Use in a wash n go for extra protection
• Treat heat damaged hair

There are a few samples of my whipped shea butter mixtures floating around out there. Hopefully soon I'll have a couple reviews back on it. Try to create your own mixes. What would you use??